Hermosa Cliff, San Juan Skyway
Our short bus ride from Silverton to Durango after
a grinding train ride in the opposite direction - about an year ago - gave
us a sample of the jaw dropping scenery of the SW Colorado region. A little
Google search informed us that the route forms a part of ~230 miles San
Juan Skyway, one of the best scenic drives in the US. The internet search
also empowered us with the intelligence
to
attempt the drive during autumn, when the scenery is generally at its dramatic
best. The first weekend in Oct. 2005 is when we got to execute our plan.
Our trip started off in Grand Junction with the
nearby Colorado National Monument being our first destination. We completed
the 23 scenic miles of the monument in little over three hours, spending
most of the time at the view points around the Monument Valley region,
easily the most spectacular portion of the park. We got our first sample
of the colourful Colorado on our next scenic drive - the 63 mile long Grand
Mesa scenic byway. The Aspen trees were at their best outfit during this
time of the year. They ported more shades of yellow than an average home
improvement paint brochure.
After three hours on the grand mesa, we somehow
managed to drag ourselves out of the scenic drive so that we have enough
time for the final one planned for the day - the 133 mile long Unaweep-Tebeguache
drive. Although the drive traversed some beautiful mesa country, the lack
of autumn hues made the drive look pedestrian in comparison to the others,
so much so that the best part of the drive was infact the location where
it ended - the San Juan Skyway - we had to drive along the San Juan Skyway
for a few miles before we got to Montrose, our final destination for the
day. The sunset views of the San Juan mountains from this final stretch
was easily the most spectacular on our entire trip. We saw enough to make
us wait with bated breath for the
following
morning.
The following day, we got up early to complete
the full San Juan circuit. We covered the 236 miles in little over 7 hrs.
We were able to complete this in a day largely due to the 'been there done
that' factor that made us skip most of Silverton, Durango and Mesa Verde
National Park. The skyway crosses half a dozen passes - three of which
being 10,000ft+ - each rivalling the other in the spectacular mountainscape
that greeted us at the top. The scenery would have been worthwhile in any
fair-weather season, but autumn really took it to a higher level. The must-sees
of the drive includes the views from the Molas Pass, Red Mountain pass,
Lizard Head
pass, Telluride's bridal veil falls and of course, the brilliant sunset
views around the Dallas Divide.
Our final day was reserved for the nearby Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park. We made the mistake of going early to the park. Almost every view point on the south rim, the most accessible side, face east forcing you to peer right into the harsh morning rays. The best view point, ironically, turned out to be the sunset view, which as the name suggests, looked westwards. After spending a couple of hours squinting against the sun rays, we decided to leave the park and try to squeeze in one more scenic drive - this one to Aspen, the town. Quite contrary to its name, the town did not have as many Aspens as the earlier scenic drives. But in its defence, we did not have enough time on our hands to cover the most talked about part of the town - the Maroon Bells region. That in the end turned out to be the only disappointment on the trip. If we had timed the last day better, we could have visited the "bells" as well before scrambling back to where it all began - the Grand Junction airport!
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