US-AZ: Grand Canyon National Park
Bright Angel Point, North Rim
Having twice been to the grand
canyon, the combined physical activities of which consisted of bending
over the railings and pointing the camera at the right direction, I was
determined not to put another trip there unless I was sure I wont come
back without breaking a sweat. An opportunity to uphold my decision presented
itself when a brave hearted woman, Susan, organised a rim-to-rim hiking trip to the canyon. Although the trip followed a series of
preparatory hikes, most of the participants met each other only on the eve of
departure.
The 30 of us who signed up for the trip left LA late on a cold tuesday night hoping to have a fun filled hike across the canyon. None of us expected that most of the fun would happen not at the canyon, but to and from it! It all started with the mode of transport that we had for the trip - the adventure bus, which looked more like a Baghdad magic carpet than the popular four wheeler. The interior of the transport consisted of one big segmented bed and all of us had to choose a favourite sleeping posture and stick to it till the next morning.
It was only in the morning, when we found ourselves not far from our houses, that we realised the fact about the speed (or the lack of it) of the bus. We were presenting the other oversized vehicles on the road the opportunity of the lifetime to overtake another motorised vehicle and all but one ramshackled road roller gleefully accepted the offer. But what we lacked in speed outside, we made it up in the fun we had inside. The mode of travel (of sleeping on top of each other) forced all of us to get to know each other better, which would never have been possible had there been traditional seats. After spending better part of the next day huddled inside the bus, we finally crawled to the North Rim campground just in time to cook dinner and set up our tents.
Our campsite permits on the hike were such that we had to hike down in smaller groups on different days following different
itineraries.
I chose to join the last group and thus gave myself a couple of days to
explore the north rim. I found the north rim to be more beautiful than
the south rim, although there weren't quite as many viewpoints and (thankfully)
quite as many tourists. The Widfross point trail and the Uncle Jim trail
were covered as a part of the "exploring" process and preparations for
the big one across the canyon. Gary, the fearless leader (or that's how
he addressed himself), my flat mate Suraj, Jim, Rocky and myself were the
members
of the final group which left the north rim early saturday morning. We
were joined by couple more - Rudy and Dan - on the two days that we spent
inside the canyon. The north rim is higher than the south rim by about
2000 ft and hence the descent from the north side is much steeper, which
by the by was the reason our hike started from this side. We went down
the N. Kaibab trail (14 miles to the river) and up the Bright Angel trail
(9 miles from the river). Thanks to Gary we had obtained the permits to
stay at the Cottonwood (7 miles into the canyon from the north) and
Bright Angel (at the river) campgrounds for the two nights. That left us
with easy strolls and plenty of free time during our descent and a slightly
hard ascent on the last day. The first group, for comparison, had to walk
to the Indian Gardens on the first day, a good 20 miles from the north
rim camp site!
We spent most of the free time in the Cottonwood
camp site at the nearby ribbon falls - a decent falls in a very pretty
settings. The route between the cottonwood and the bright angel campgrounds
is the most beautiful section of the entire journey. The trail runs all
along the bright angel creek through a 7 mile long narrow canyon.
The
scenery was quite spectacular especially due to the enormous size of the
canyon walls. I had a perfect ending to the day when I unknowingly ended
up at one of the most dramatic viewpoints while searching for the rest
of group along one of the side trails. The view point offers a great panoramic
view of a good portion of the inner gorge, the two south rim trails along
with the two foot bridges. The clear creek trail which leads one to this
overlook surprisingly was completely deserted and this point could be one
of the best kept secrets of the region.
A 6 hour hike up the bright angel trail brought
us to the south rim by noon on the last day. Except for the last three
miles where the trail resembled a steep ladder, the hike was very pleasant.
Another fun filled bus journey where we attained speeds which gave two
snails and a tortoise a scare of their lifetime, we reached LA in the sleepy
hours of tuesday morning, giving us enough time to drive straight back
to work. All in all, it was one of the best hiking holiday I have had in the US by one of the quaintest (and a certain must-do) mode of transport.
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